Berlin-based journalist A.J. Goldmann, who has written
for The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal, sent us this dispatch from Obama's speech today. Clck here to download a podcast of his dispatch.
Today none of the quotidian annoyances of Berlin life seemed to matter. Not the open
ended strike by Berlin's
public service, nor the maddening traffic changes brought upon by the never
ending construction. All attention was focused squarely on Barack Obama's visit today.
Obama has been greeted here as
nothing short of a political celebrity. This morning, the
senator's picture was splashed across the front page of virtually every Berlin newspaper. Even
the large circulation tabloid BILD ran an
image of Obama directly above its topless cover
girl.
It often feels that few people hold real jobs in Berlin, a city with an
enormous number of artists, students, and unemployed. Still, it was
surprising to see the crowds that lined up in the early afternoon.
People were admitted to Tiergarten--Berlin's massive central
park--starting at 4 p.m. There was airport level security at the park's
entrance, including metal detectors and thorough inspections of all bags and
electronics. Near the security check was a station where Berlin-based
Americans--of which there are roughly 13,000--could register to vote and tables
set up by assorted environmental organizations distributing leaflets.
After security, the masses filled the wide Strasse der 17 Juni--the setting of the legendary and lewd Love
Parade--until the imposing Victory Column, a kilometer later. In advance of
Senator Obama's appearance, there was a performance
by a mediocre reggae artist.
The weather
was warm and mild as Obama addressed the crowd from
the Victory Column, facing the Brandenburg Gate, with the sun setting behind
him. Once the applause for the senator dies down, the thousands of
spectators--many munching on bratwurst and drinking beer--remained behaved and
respectful during his half-hour long address.
That crowd was a healthy mix of young and old, with a large
number of Americans and Africans in attendance. Many wore Obama
tee-shirts of various designs, some with his campaign slogan "Change
we can believe in." Some were even draped in American flags, a sight none
too common in Berlin, where the war in Iraq is largely
condemned and anti-Bush sentiment runs high.
The natives greeted the speech with a surprising lack of
cynicism. There were, however, two junctures where Obama
was met with derision. The emphasis he placed on the war against drugs drew
scattered boos, a reaction not too unexpected in a city where marijuana is
partially legalized. His line about America having made its "share of
mistakes" drew cheers and
laughter from an audience that felt Obama had made
the understatement of the century.
But all in
all, the Berliners around me were swept up by the bravura performance and
the inspired rhetoric, which was met with massive cheers. Even without
simultaneous translation into German, Obama's
repeated call for tearing down walls between peoples and nations resonated
powerfully in this of all cities.
--A.J.
Goldmann
(Photo Credit: Paul J. Thomas)